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Maggie’s Organics has been making high-quality durable
and affordable socks and apparel out of organic
fibers since 1992. We began quite by accident, when
an organic corn farmer in Texas taught us the truth
behind conventional cotton.
Founder Bená Burda was working with the farmer to
improve the quality of his blue corn crop for the
tortilla chips she was marketing at the time. The
farmer decided that adding cotton into his three
year organic crop rotation would improve his corn
yields. His experiment worked, and also provided
him with 200 acres of certified organic cotton,
which he expected Bená to sell! After researching
cotton, and learning that this one crop is grown
on 3-5% of the world’s cultivated land, and yet
uses nearly 10% of the world’s pesticides and 25%
of the world’s insecticides, we committed ourselves
to utilizing these 200 acres of organic cotton to
tell the real story behind conventional cotton clothing…
Maggie’s Organics was born.
But how to get the word out about this newly discovered
environmental calamity? Given our history marketing
organic foods, it was natural for us to turn to
all of our friends who were natural food entrepreneurs.
So we showed up at the 1992 Natural Products Expo
(then called the Natural FOODS Expo) with a wall
of socks behind us. Food retailers with an existing
consumer base concerned about the environment were
not exactly eager to sell socks, but we were persistent.
And our retailers were and still are both creative
and adaptive. After getting our socks placed in
stores throughout the US, Maggie’s began to expand
our line to include tee shirts and polo shirts,
logowear for organic food companies, and as a result
began to learn about the very convoluted and confusing
apparel production cycle.
It was overwhelming, and we made more mistakes than
we thought were possible. Natural dyes that faded
in the sun – we called them ‘mood shirts’ (if you
didn’t like the color, go outside for a few hours).
polos that we were proud to say shrunk only 14%
– because it was all in the length and not in the
width, we promoted the midriff look at trade shows
that year. Women’s scoop tops that we marketed as
wearing well day-into-evening because they started
the day on your shoulders and were off-shoulder
by the end of the day. Still, we persevered, studied
hard, and continued to improve year after year.
Our customers continued to support us, somehow feeling
the special energy in our products.
As we expanded our product offering, we learned
first-hand about the working conditions in textile
plants while dealing with two ongoing problems:
late orders and poor quality. All of our contracts
were in the US, where the apparel industry was already
working under-capacity due to off-shore competition.
Yet we could not get an order for 10,000 basic tee
shirts shipped on time. We began to spend more time
in our contract factories, trying to figure out
why these problems recurred. This is when we learned
who actually sews the clothes that we all buy: poor
and often under-educated workers, mostly women,
paid by the piece. They choose to stay at the same
repetitive jobs for years in order to become more
efficient, so they can make enough money to feed
their families, which in turn wreaks havoc on both
their bodies and their minds. Most important of
all, we realized that worker s in apparel chains
are completely disenfranchised from the customers
who wear their clothes as well as the companies
whose labels they sew.
We began to ask ourselves how we could consider
Maggie’s an environmentally responsible company
while engaging in such an irresponsible supply chain.
We had to find a better way. This is when we met
Jubilee House Community, a community development
organization that had operated in Nicaragua for
over a decade helping victims of natural disasters.
JHC worked to find employment for those in need
and had access to many workers, both skilled and
unskilled. We offered JHC a challenge: If they could
create a facility where every worker had a vested
interest in our success, and had a way to determine
their own success, we would turn all of our sewing
contracts over to them. They suggested a worker
–ownership model, and together we created a 100%
worker-owned sewing cooperative in Nicaragua called
the Fair Trade Zone. This experience has inspired
us to continue pursuing other cooperative projects
and to develop relationships with contractors who
honor workers’ rights.
Today, Maggie’s Organics has developed three separate
supply chains that produce all of our products:
socks, legwear, and apparel. All of our socks are
made by 5 family-owned mills in North Carolina.
We are very proud of the fact that every pair of
socks we have made in our 18 years has been made
in the USA. Our tights and legwear are produced
in GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards) certified
facilities in Peru, from cotton grown by cooperative
farmers in the Canete Valley. Our new apparel line
of Hoodies, Dresses, Wraps, Scarves, Pants, Tanks,
Camisoles, and Men’s Shirts is from our Central
American supply chain, described below. Each supply
chain we use is committed to providing a quality
Maggie’s product that is produced with fair working
conditions and practices and, as always, all of
our cotton and wool is 100% certified organic.
We have spent the past few years developing our
Central American supply chain in order to provide
top quality certified organic cotton apparel that
we are able to sell at affordable prices. This supply
chain begins in Nicaragua, where we have helped
to revive a devastated cotton industry and to convert
it to organic farming methods. The grower groups
and co-ops we work with in Nicaragua provide livelihoods
for over 1200 people. All of them harvest their
cotton by hand and use a specific variety of cotton
seed called Melba, which was developed by Nicaraguans
to work best in the Nicaraguan climate. Yields have
increased each year, and farmers earn over twice
what they would for conventional cotton.
With the help of the Jubilee House Community, who
coordinates all the growers, we have been able to
develop worker-owned cooperatives for the next two
stages of production - the ginning of fiber and
the spinning of yarn. The yarn then heads to Costa
Rica where CIA Textiles dyes and finishes the yarn
into different fabrics. This is also where the fabric
is cut and sewn into our finished garments. CIA
Textiles was founded 60 years ago by a Jewish immigrant
from Poland who was sent by his family at age 14
to escape the Nazi invasion. His vision and compassion
set the ground work for workers’ rights with a democratic
workers’ association, paying above average wages,
and instituting many special work programs.
Maggie’s Organics is intricately involved with each
step of production of our organic cotton apparel,
from the farming of the cotton to the finished garment.
Our goal is to connect the workers who make our
products with the consumers who wear them.
Recently, we have begun to work with independent
monitoring organizations that now offer 3rd party
verification programs that certify the working conditions
and labor conditions in our supply chain. Our Central
American supply chain is the first to have been
certified to these standards.
In early 2010, the entire supply chain was Certified
Fair Labor™ through the Fair Labor Practices and
Community Benefits by Scientific Certification Systems.
Every stage of production was certified to this
new standard – the growers, cotton gin, spinner,
knitter, dyer, cutter, sewer, and screen-printer
as well as our office and warehouses at Maggie’s.
Certification to this standard covers equitable
hiring and employment; safe workplace conditions;
worker and family access to health; education, and
transportation services; local and regional impacts;
community engagement; and demonstrated economic
stability.
Additionally, this same supply chain in Central
America is now licensed to sell Fair Trade Certified™
organic cotton apparel. This new pilot program through
Fair Trade USA certifies working conditions for
the growers of our organic cotton, knitters and
dyers of our fabric, and cutters and sewers of our
garments. It guarantees that we pay the established
fair trade price for our cotton, and that each grower
and worker receives an additional cash premium designed
to be used for social programs in their communities.
At Maggie’s Organics, we are proud of what we have
accomplished with every worker in our supply chains
and we are honored with the partnerships we have
developed. We are persistently searching for ways
to grow and expand our efforts. In 2011, we plan
to have our knitters in North Carolina utilizing
organic cotton yarn from our Nicaraguan farmers
for our socks. We are continuing to build a vertical
supply chain that is 100% worker-owned. We are also
helping the Nicaraguan farmers supply organic cotton
fiber to Peru. As we have grown over the past 18
years, we have found ourselves looking for more
opportunities, not just for Maggie’s, but also for
our supply chain partners.
Maggie’s Organics mission since the beginning has
been to produce and provide comfortable, durable,
affordable, and beautiful articles of apparel and
accessories made from materials that restore, sustain,
and enhance resources, including human, from which
they are made. We are inspired by our fulfillment
of that mission, and are humbled by how much further
we have to go. And through it all we are honestly
awed by our customers – distributors, retailers
and consumers – by their commitment, by their support,
and by their constant challenges to improve.
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